Tuesday, April 22, 2014

...and then it goes back up and we pull through


…and then I read this song posted by a friend who is an RPCV from Suriname and I’m filled again with a joy and love for being here and a desire to see it through. Thank you Gwynn and thank you to all to people who help pull us through the low times

You’re my brother,
I’m your brother too,
Hold me in your hand.
Together, we’ll work until God comes again.

Nothing can happen to us
When we walk together.
Nothing can happen to us
When we live side by side.

Where love is, I promise you, it will hold you over.
Where love is, I promise you, it will get you through.
Where love is, I promise you, it will take you there.

You’re my brother,
I’m your brother too.
Hold me in your hand
Until God comes again.

Nothing will happen to us.
Nothing will happen to us.

My sister,
Where love is, I promise you, it will get you through.

And never, never, never
Must we hate each other.
And never, never, never
Must we hate each other.

We must, we must, we must
Love each other.
Alright.

Of the laws God gives us,
Love is the boss of them all.
Of the laws God gives us,
Love is greater than them all.

Love must be.

A low point on the rollercoaster


This is just one of those days when you feel unbelievably lonely. Lonelier than you ever thought you could feel. I’ve always been a social person, comfortable in my skin and often surrounded by loving and wonderful friends and family.
In Togo, it’s been difficult to maintain that status. I often feel uncomfortable in my skin, because of the attention it draws and misconceptions that people garner from it.
I try to surround myself with loving and wonderful friends and people I can call my family in Togo, but then you find your brother, the person you love and hope for the most in the whole country, has broken into your house, stolen a key, made copies and then broken into your house yet again and stolen 20% of your monthly living allowance.
I try to be social, but then the crowds try to push and pull me in every direction, giving no space for l’etranger to enjoy the social time on her means.
These are things that I have struggled with, gotten over, and struggled with again over the last two years. And I know I will get over them again. But it doesn’t make those low times any less miserable.
            In addition to the rollercoaster on which my personal happiness tends to ride, I’ve recently had the challenge of a complexly intertwined personal and professional lifestyle. In Peace Corps, your work partners, both host country nationals and volunteers, are also your best friends. Your neighbors become your family. And when difficult decisions need to be made when it comes to projects, living situations or leadership positions in a large project, you can’t help but do something that is going to upset someone from your small network of close friends.
Maybe it’s realizing that you don’t have the time to take on a village project that your closest counterpart really wants (or you think it is a terrible idea and you simply don’t want to take it on). If you don’t want to fund his project, he might take it as a personal attack (we say he should know better. We know we’re not here to be moneybags. But he has misconceptions about us and others of our nationality or skin color, which brings us back to the second paragraph).
Or maybe its selecting volunteers to take on leadership positions for a national large camp or event that you lead and hope to see continue next year. Whoever you don’t select will likely be upset, even if they have the emotional strength and intelligence to handle it, move on and continue the friendship. And no one wants to hurt his or her friends.
As I’m coming to the end of my service, I find that for some reason these things are affecting me more than in the past. I’m struggling with the loneliness, with the failures, with the betrayals. Maybe its because I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, I can imagine my life post-peace corps, that I’m finding it so difficult to live with the passing moments of darkness. I know it will pass. I know I will come out on the other end, fulfilled and content. But for the moment it’s a difficult passage.

Wednesday, March 26, 2014

Women's Wellness and Empowerment in Togo


            March 8 is International Women’s Day, a day that originally started to celebrate and encourage the movements made by suffragettes around the world who were fighting for women’s rights in the workplace and for the right to vote. Today it is still celebrated around the world for in nearly all countries we can still find inequalities between men and women. I find that the celebration of this day and the things it symbolizes is especially important in countries like Togo, where traditional gender roles place men as the authority over women and do not provide for equality in decision making in the household or the work force. While education and access to information may be changing this gender balance in Togo, there is still a lot of work to do. 

Girls collecting water from one of the few wells that haven't dried up in Solla
Volunteers from across Togo can testify to the inequality they see on a daily basis between men and women, between girls and boys. Women and girls are expected to sweep the house, to prepare all the meals, to fetch water for bathing, drinking and cooking, to collect wood for cooking, to sow seed and harvest from the fields, to sell the goods from the harvest in the market, to prepare food or drink for sale. These are time consuming activities, especially when you consider that they may need to travel over a kilometer to find the closest water source and may need to make 3 or 4 trips in order to collect enough water for the household’s daily needs. 

Men have their roles as well; they are expected to build the yam hills in the fields and the rows for corn, to build the houses where the families live, to serve as an authority to solve the family’s problems, to provide money to pay for the needs of the household. But these tasks do not take nearly the time as those of women and by midday, most men are busy drinking with their buddies and sleeping under the mangos trees while the women continue to work. In the evenings, they are free to play soccer and promenade in the markets while the girls and women prepare for all the households evening needs.  The balance of work is not equal. And neither is the balance of choice.
A man in Solla working the rice fields

In this culture, the men, especially in rural areas, often dictate decisions. They decide whether or not their daughters will be allowed to go to school, whether the mother will be able to take family planning measures. And women are taught that they must be subordinate to men. They are taught that their thoughts are not of value in decision-making. This has lead many women to be timid around men, to lack confidence in themselves and their ability to speak thoughtfully. It is an unfortunate thing, especially since it is the women who truly understand the problems of the family and the community and only through this understanding can we ever find the solutions. 

But this situation can change. It can change by influencing women, but showing them their power and influence and instilling in them the confidence to assert their beliefs, to mobilize their communities and sensitize them on the issues they face. When a person is confident in themselves and their convictions, others listen. It is when we are timid and unsure of ourselves that people tend to doubt our ideas and in turn doubt us.

This is why in 2011, Peace Corps Togo organized the first Women’s Wellness and Empowerment conference. The idea was to give women a forum where they could share ideas and experiences in a setting that would be more comfortable and educative than that which they encounter in villages where men often talk over the women and don’t give them the change to speak. This year, the fourth annual conference was held in my regional capital of Kara, in the north of Togo and I had the opportunity to be among those on the organizing team. 

My fellow National Coordinator Priya and I worked over the last several months with Mimi (the president of the NGO P2M- Pour Une Monde Meilleur who is our host organization and a dedicated partner for women’s rights and empowerment in Togo), and Erin, our Monitoring and Evaluation Chair, to plan the conference and international women’s day event.

The conference started with a training of trainers, which was well organized by Erin to teach the trainers about different learning styles, the importance of incorporating visual, auditory and kinesthetic learning tools in each session and how to work well with co-facilitators. After session development, we decorated the center to prepare for the welcoming of our participants.

Getting excited for the tour of Kara!
The participants arrived tired from the long voyage and largely timid and uncertain about what was to come. They were given a short time to rest after registration and then were allowed to go on a tour of Kara that we’d programmed for them. The 30 women plus 5 Togolese trainers went for an hour tour of the city to visit the market, Palais de Congres, the Université de Kara and other sites around town. Most of these women had never been to Kara and some had never left the vicinity of their villages. 

That evening after dinner was one of the most touching parts of the conference, the candlelight ceremony. It was organized and lead by our Togolese organizer and past participant Mimi, with help from three other past participants who had been invited back this year to serve as trainers. Mimi talked about how she was a model of what the conference can do, of how she came as a participant and has grown in her self-confidence and leadership as a direct result of the faith the conference has put in her. Her speech testified to the values of the conference. She talked of how at first we start in obscurity, uncertain of our rights and our power. But how someone can illuminate you and bring you into the light, for education is not the filling of a bucket, but the lighting of a fire. At this point we lit the candle she held in her hands and she then used this flame to light the candles of the women to either side, who one by one spread their flame and brought the rest of the circle of women into the light.

The other past participants then spoke of the importance of sharing this light, of not letting it rest with you alone, so that the nation of women can be brought out of isolation and darkness and into the light of confidence that can change their lives. They also spoke of the times when their candle went out, when they encountered difficulties that left them discouraged and fatigued. In these moments, they said, it’s important to turn to your friends and neighbors who you have illuminated, for they now hold the fire that can relight your own. 

It was striking for me to watch Mimi and the woman that I’d sent to the conference last year lead this session with such confidence and ease. It’s beautiful to see how they have grown and continue to inspire.

The following day focused on women’s rights issues. There was a session on self-confidence animated by a strong past participant (who’s over 60!) who spoke of how when you have the confidence in yourself and your words, people listen. But when you stumble and doubt yourself, others will doubt you as well. After the women learned about gender roles in Togo, how men and women are segregated in the society and why it’s important to educate young girls equally with young boys. The afternoon held the most emotionally difficult sessions of the conference: women’s rights and sexual harassment.  Often women in Togo, including many of our participants, are ignorant of their rights and these sessions open their eyes to the rights given them under Togolese law, such as the right to inherit property and the right against domestic violence and sexual harassment. While these sessions can be emotionally taxing as the women share stories of the suffering women bear in their villages, they carry the positive twist of introducing these women to the resources that exist in their regions, such as the NGOs run by two of our Togolese counterparts.

PCVs Molly and Erin giving two of our participants face masks
After the exhausting first day of sessions, we gave the women a chance to relax by hosting a beauty night organized by our Volunteer trainer Alison. Here we treated the women to face masks, manicures and foot massages and took a couple hours to take care of these women who do so much to take care of their families and communities every day of their lives. 

The second day of sessions focused on women’s health issues such as family planning, sexual health, HIV and STI prevention, breast cancer and disease prevention through sanitation. The aim is to give the women the technical tools needed to inform others in their communities and make advances for women’s and family health.

PCV Ruth co-lead a session on family planning 
 
The final day brings it all full circle by teaching the women how to transmit the information they have learned to others in their communities. Here we organized a large gathering of community members who came together to listen to the women and give them a time to practice their presentation skills. The celebration coincided with International Women’s Day and served the dual purpose of celebrating women and giving them the confidence to teach others to create positive change in their communities. We invited four keynote speakers to our event: a powerful businesswoman named Madame Elino who started from humble beginnings but through the support of the social services in Kara has grown into a household name, the regional director of social action, the representative of the Prefet of Kara and the Country Director of Peace Corps Togo. They spoke of the power of women to change the world and of the importance of encouraging and celebrating women in our communities.

After our keynote speakers concluded, the participants took the stage and shared three skits that embodied the themes they learned over the week. The first skit focused on financial independence, falling in line with Togo’s national theme for the day “L’autonomisation économique de la femme: c’est le progrès pour tout et pour toutes” and the women shared the importance of creating small savings and loan groups in their villages. The second skit focused on gender segregation and girls education, respecting the United Nations theme for the day of “Women’s equality means progress for everyone”. The final skit focused on family planning and educating our rural women and the process and its benefits. After the presentation concluded, the 500+ attendees stayed for music and refreshments to celebrate this day in the name of the women of Togo and the world who are fighting for their rights.

Participants and trainers preparing for the International Women's Day Event
Needless to say, it was a stressful but ultimately rewarding day. Managing teams of audio workers, setting up tents and chairs, preparing the participants, coordinating the TV and radio crews and keeping 500+ attendees from breaking into a full out mob was not easy (in fact, I think we failed at the last part when the donated drinks came out. Be wearing when giving out anything for free in Togo), but it was a remarkable learning experience and I’ve been hearing positive remarks from all those involved ever since. Even people from my village who were unable to attend the event heard the radio broadcast and remarked on the success of the event.

After the heat of the event cooled and the crowd dispersed, we shared our final meal with the participants, took some time to share our thoughts and watched a slideshow put together by our hardworking media coordinator PCV Andy. The conference was coming to a close. In the morning the women would all depart for their villages to continue their transformation and enlighten others in their villages.

Three of the participants presenting one of their skits for the population
The morning witnessed a race to collect all the contact information for the friends and resources the women gained throughout the week, promises to keep in touch and keep the light shining bright. I have confidence in these women, for they are my inspiration and my hope for the future of Togo. Thank you to everyone who helped make this event a reality, to all who donated, organized or trained, thank you.



In a couple months we will be reconnecting with out participants on a local level, encouraging them to share their successes and difficulties in sensitizing their communities in an effort to create a local network of strong women who can rely on one another for support. It is this type of networking between women and the men who support and encourage them that will create the change we hope to see in the world.